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I could probably get the low volt value from the battery when the power tool turns off and use that in the code to turn off the slider at that time. Perhaps I could do some type of voltage volt controller like here.
#Amp steps motor driver
I'm a bit lost in the discussion so just to confirm.the 20V LION battery that I specified can be used with the 12V motor and DRV8825 driver and the battery won't be harmed?Īs to the correct settings on the driver.still not sure what is the correct setting 0.4A or 0.5A.Īs to protecting the LI-ON cells. When reading through the comments under the Stepper Motor Basics, there is a discussion on proper voltage for the motor. Correct? Granted, I understand that the 0.4A motor will require a longer time to charge the coils and therefore will be slower but that is not a concern for me as the slider will be moving at several steps per second. If I understand correctly though.a lower amp motor will draw less current, therefore the battery charge will last longer on a low amp motor than for a higher amp motor so the 0.4A motor will allow the slider to work longer than the 1.7A motor with the same battery. I was taken off by Mark's comment: "Battery life depends only on power of the motor, choosing a low current motor isn't going to help at all". *Edited because I can’t multiply correctly… What driver would you recommend for both motors? If I got that right then the 0.4A should be good enough for my job with the understanding that it may take a few seconds to calibrate the position from one end to the other. The results after plugging in the numbers are max 500 steps/s for the 0.4A and 1924 steps/s for the 1.3A. to calibrate the position, the slider would be used mostly for timelapse so from a fraction of a step per second to several steps per second.īased on your reply I found this website:. So from A to B the shaft would need to rotate 12.7 times. The slider is 100 cm and the timing pulley would have a 25mm outer diameter which would be 78.5mm circumference. I think that I understand now the current/coil relationship in regards to speed and I see where you’re going with the steps/sec. With the step out of the way, it was 2 bolts to disconnect the drive motor, and 2 bolts to take the arm off.I will be modifying this camera slider so there shouldn’t be much friction. I used a dead blow hammer to tap it lose. After loosening the screws that held it on, it was still stuck on. As can be seen below, the step sits in a groove on the arm with sand in it. The steps are right behind the front tire and as a result, are constantly being bombarded with sand and road grime. I could easily see the broken gear, but I needed to take the side step arm off to get to the shaft. Regardless, the shaft end broke into pieces and needed to be replaced.
You can see there is some grit in the photos, but most of the dirt from sticking to the spray on grease that I use. It’s exposed to air and had the potential to get rocks and debris in it, but I’m pretty good about cleaning the extension arms. The part that broke is the shaft that goes through the steps that the motor uses to lift and lower the steps. You can find AMP Research contact info here: Broken Gear After emailing AMP Research, the sent me the broken gear replacement within a couple of days. Fortunately, the AMP Research Powerstep comes with a 5-year warranty. I’ve seen other trucks that had their steps stuck down and it looks like crap. The AMP Research Powerstep had just chewed through a gear and my driver side step was permanently down.ĪMP Research Powersteps are not cheap, and I always had worried a little about this happening. When I got out, I found chunks of metal on the ground. I was working on my truck and when I closed my door, I heard a crunching noise and the step motor still running. I’ve had them for a little over 2 years and they have worked flawlessly…until recently.
#Amp steps motor mods
One of the first mods I did on my Toyota Tundra was to get AMP Research Powersteps.
#Amp steps motor pro
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#Amp steps motor cracked
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